Coffee farm touring in Peru - August 2009

Chris Eilers of Dunn Bros Coffee recently experienced the developing culture of exceptional coffee growing in Peru.  This is his account and video of his travels there:

Peru is not only a land where one can explore a rich landscape filled with countless Inca ruins including the wonderfully mysterious ancient city of Machu Picchu, it is also home to one of the best coffee growing regions in all of South America.  And the culture of producing exceptional coffees is very much alive and picking up steam.  More roasters and buyers of these higher-end lots begin spending more time in origin developing relationship and educating farmers on the benefits of producing these fine coffees.

In August, I was lucky enough to travel to Peru with a group of roasters and coffee buyers from many respectable companies including Coffee Bean International, Counter Culture Coffee, Sacred Grounds, and Cuvee.  In addition to meeting with several hard working farmers and exchanging ideas on how to improve coffee quality (and thereby help them receive higher prices) we spent most of our time learning about a “direct trade” coffee buying model that has proven to be an outstanding way to insure the small farmers associated with this program received the highest possible prices for their coffee through a 100% transparent contract.

This model was developed by our host, K.C. O’Keefe.  K.C. is an American who spends several months throughout the year in Peru.  Interestingly enough, K.C. also opened a beautiful coffee shop in Lima called Café Verde where he also has a five kilo coffee roaster just like you would see in one of our stores.  K.C. was excited and impressed to learn about Dunn Bros and our on-site roasting model.  He too is a big proponent of roasting fresh coffee in the store. One big difference though is that his selection of coffees is limited to those grown in Peru. As is typical in many coffee producing countries, importing coffee from other countries is not encouraged and therefore heavily taxed.  K.C. overcomes this challenge by creating blends and offering different varietals from different growing regions with in Peru.  The micro-climates and growing conditions of each region create specific taste nuances to those respective coffees.  This is why we are careful to highlight the growing regions from which all of our coffees (no matter what country) are from.

The “direct trade” model developed by K.C. was exciting to learn about. Unlike Fair Trade certified coffees, the transparency contract used in his model identifies the exact payment the farmer will receive.  All the parties associated with the buying transaction from the farmer to the roaster are identified on and they actually sign the contract.  Just as important, all the coffees are graded via “Q” cupping standards so the farmers know what the quality standard is that they are expected to deliver and the roaster has assurances that they will receive the quality of coffee they contracted for.  K.C. has developed a very thorough process to make sure all the parties are having their expectations met.  The beauty of this model is that it encourages the production of high quality coffee by rewarding the producers directly for their efforts. Furthermore, contracts between the farmers and the roasters are typically three years which creates the likelihood of a strong and more sustainable relationship between the two.

Over the coming months, Dunn Bros will be learning more about this model and we are hopeful that we will be able to bring you some of these wonderful Peruvian coffees very soon.

-Chris

A Coffee Buyer's Trip To Nicaragua

Here is a detailed account of coffee buyer, Scott Kee’s, trip to Nicaragua hosted by Utz Kapeh:  

“I recently had the opportunity to tour Nicaragua with representatives from Utz Kapeh.  I traveled with a diverse group of seven individuals including importers, exporters, brokers and coffee roasters. 

As we gathered for our first breakfast, it was clear the host’s tightly orchestrated agenda was not for the casual traveler. We were on track to see all five of the country’s major  growing regions in 4 days. The itinerary’s rhythm was consistent too- tour farms in the morning, eat a late lunch, go on milling tours, and end the day at the mill cupping the region’s coffees.  

The first day we traveled to two farms and met with 20 farmers. We discussed the Utz Kapeh certification process, the assistance the farmers were receiving, and the farm level changes that had taken place since the Utz Kapeh process had been introduced. In the afternoon we traveled to the CECOCAFEN mill and cupped coffees from the Matagalpa and Jinotega areas.   

During our second night we listened to a presentation from Utz Kapeh. We learned that Solidaridad (the Dutch government), and various private aid groups, fund the Utz Kapeh group. We were also introduced to SNV, the technical partner Utz Kapeh relies on for agronomy and direct farmer fieldwork. To clarify each group’s purposes and funding sources, I have requested a flow chart from our hosts and will pass this forward. Coincidentally, Solidaridad is also providing grants at the Gatanga washing station that Dunn Bros Coffee is supporting in Kenya. 

On our third day of travel to the mill, the group agreed that the past harvest’s green coffee samples had become dull and faded in flavor. I was relieved as this explained why the coffees tasted flat. As we checked into our hotel for the night, I traced our travels on a large wall map when one of the drivers came over to show me the next day’s winding travel route. He then abruptly stopped, pointed hard at one spot and began tapping the map exclaiming, “Here is very, very, verrryyy good coffee.” He was pointing at Nuevo Segovia, where the topography information showed the surrounding mountains to have altitudes in the 1,500 meter range which is a good altitude to grow great coffees. 

Day four brought us to the 2 year old, state-of-the-art milling plant located in Palacaguina.  As we cupped the 40 or so coffees we noticed quality shifts in the cup characteristics. These coffees had dimensions we missed in the earlier part of our trip. A lot of the coffees we cupped that day were Fair Trade Organic and grown at altitudes around 3,500 ft. After a quick lunch, we set out for the Nuevo Segovia area for the final mill tour and cupping. 

Arriving at the mill, we met with twelve or so farmers eagerly waiting to see how well their coffees compared to the other farmers. As we went to work on the first twelve coffees it was apparent the mill had over roasted six of them- what a shame. We then went on to the next twelve coffees and immediately found six standouts. My favorite three tasted like grapefruit, brown sugar, caramel, and were loaded with body. 

After we tallied the scores we stepped outside to meet with the farmers responsible for the coffee. Of the six standouts, three of the coffees came from the Peralta brothers, and my favorite three came from a young farmer named Sergio Ortez. After the cupping scores for the second round of coffees had been thoroughly discussed, I discreetly sought out Mr. Ortez for further discussion about his farming practices, how much he produced yearly, and the likelihood of buying some of next year’s crop. Sergio was fluent in English, was fairly new to coffee farming, sees his profession as a labor of love, and only sells directly to roasters. Last year he sold his entire crop directly to high-end Japanese coffee houses. This year he has been hard at work increasing his production and replicating the farming practices that produced the outstanding coffees we cupped. As we wrapped up our conversation, Sergio said he was going to give me access to his private website so I could watch his weekly updates. This is the first farmer I have ever met that has such a great grasp on where coffee is going and how to harness social media. Amazing guy. 

In retrospect, the tight agenda was great because it allowed us to see the entire country’s diverse growing regions and their respective qualities, and also reinforced the importance of the education Utz Kapeh and other certification programs are bringing to farmers. These farmer-centric programs are the backbone to growing and processing better coffees. These certification programs are empowering the farmers. I look forward to bringing these coffees to our customers next spring.”

 

Enjoy Mighty Leaf Tea at Dunn Bros Coffee

If someone asked you what the most popular beverage in the world was, as a Dunn Bros Coffee fan you might respond, “coffee,” - but actually it's water. If someone asked you what is the second most popular beverage in the world, again you might respond, “coffee” - but actually the answer is tea. 

In most cultures, tea is a ritual, an opportunity to connect with yourself or someone else. Preparation for a cup of tea requires thought and intention. To brew a cup of whole leaf tea usually involves several steps. First you portion out the leaves with a scoop, then tip the scoop allowing the leaves to fill an infuser, next you pour hot water over the leaves and finally you wait for the leaves to fully infuse. Definitely not a quick process.    

That’s why Dunn Bros Coffee is proud to serve Mighty Leaf Tea. Mighty Leaf Tea pre-portions each silken biodegradeable Tea Pouch™ with loose, lush whole tea leaves, fruits, herbs, spices, and blossoms for a flavor too big for an ordinary tea bag. They stitch the pouches with an unbleached cotton string, with no staples, glue or heat needed to seal the pouch.   With Mighty Leaf Tea you don’t have to choose between quality and convenience.   

Now that you know where you can get a great cup of tea, the next step is deciding what kind of tea is right for you. In many cases the best place to start is deciding what kind of tea is right for your mood.  Many people do this by first contemplating the caffeine level. Because of this, Mighty Leaf Tea color codes each variety according to caffeine level, making it visually easy for the eye to discern what kind of tea is appropriate for your mood. 

Another way to look at this is, “how do you want to feel?” If the answer is “energized”, then black tea or mat’e would be good caffeinated choices. If the answer is “uplifted or rejuvenated”, then green tea with its light caffeine would be appropriate. If you want to feel “relaxed or soothed”, caffeine-free herbal infusions would fit the bill. As always, if you need help deciding make sure to ask your barista. 

Antioxidant-rich, tea is a healthy choice any time of year.  For your ideal tea experience, come enjoy a cup of Mighty Leaf Tea at your favorite Dunn Bros Coffee Shop.

 

Our Costa Rica Volcan Poas - UTZ Certified

Our new Costa Rica Volcan Poas coffee comes from San Pedro in the area near the Central Valley Region called the DoKa Estate. This estate has many farms surrounding it and contains one centralized mill so that farmers don’t have to travel far to process their coffees. Farmers are able to bring their coffees to this mill and have their own measures of quality control—everyone has their own technique/style while using the mill which shows in the variations in coffees that are produced here.

The DoKa Estate’s coffees are one of the first coffees that Roaster Bob drank when he started at Dunn Bros Coffee and he remembers them having a lovely black pepper spice. Everyone once in a while you will get a Costa Rican coffee that is perfectly balanced in aroma, body and taste. This coffee possesses that balance. The aroma is sweet with a high citrus quality just before you taste it. The taste has a lovely floral quality that is great for spring and the body is light and sassy—perfect for the warmer weather.

The Volcan Poas Costa Rica is also UTZ Certified. Formerly known as Utz Kapeh, UTZ-certified cooperatives, estate farms and producer groups comply with the UTZ CERTIFIED Code of Conduct. This Code is an internationally recognized set of criteria for professional coffee growing, which includes socially and environmentally appropriate coffee growing practices, and efficient farm management.

Gikongoro Rwanda

Roastmaster Bob and our coffee buyer Scott Kee discuss our new Rwanda Gikongoro.  It's a delicious coffee with a very interesting history behind it.  You can read more about the Rwanda Gikongoro on our website.

What's the scoop on Decaf?

When we buy decaf coffee, the first step is to cup (taste) the coffee before the decaffeination process. This is one of the main reasons why our decaf coffees really stand out – we first select the green bean as though we are going to roast it for regular caffeinated coffee.  Once we’ve selected the bean we send it through a decaffeination process and then cup it a second time to make sure that the flavor profile and quality remain in the cup.

Our coffees are decaffeinated using one of two methods: a water decaffeination process or a chemical solvent. The chemical solvents, such as ethyl acetate, are naturally occurring solvents that come in direct contact with the bean. Chemical processes are less invasive and result in a better tasting coffee because this process doesn’t allow other aspects of the bean to be affected.

We’ve just received our spring shipment of Decaf Colombia which was recently harvested and processed at a decaf plant right in Colombia; this meant that no extra travel was necessary. This current crop-Colombia really lends itself to a vibrant cup of coffee for our guests to enjoy.

In recent side-by-side cuppings of both our caffeinated and decaffeinated Colombia and Sumatra coffees, there were distinct differences in the overall taste. However, each coffee, even after the decaffeination process, stayed true to the characteristics of their caffeinated counterpart – the Sumatra having the earthly qualities and the Colombia the bright acidity as are expected from these two coffee regions.

Some coffee roasters will tell you horror stories about building roast profiles for their decaffeinated coffee beans but the quality beans that we choose roast the same as our regular coffees and allow subtle nuances to show through in the same way.  Caffeine is a very bitter chemical so the decaf coffees that we offer not only have distinct flavors because of their freshness but they will also taste a bit sweeter than our regular coffee offerings.

A word of caution: Serve one of our decaf coffees and some of your friends might not believe you that it’s decaf…

 

Let's talk about coffee freshness

Let's talk grocery store coffee. Come on, we all know someone who is still buying coffee from the grocery store. Coffee that is 15...30...60...who knows how many days old. But let's start at the beginning, dust off our history books and discuss how coffee got there in the first place. If you look back far enough - even in the early days of Damascus and Mesopotamia - coffee was roasted, ground, and consumed all in a short period of time. The coffee people drank in their homes before the Industrial Revolution in America was also coffee that they roasted themselves. Coffee was not something that was pre-packaged and sold months after roasting as it is done...say for example in grocery stores today.

 

During the industrial revolution, it was decided that an entire industry could be created from the idea of coffee roasting.  It was marketed that roasting coffee in a factory was better because there were controlled surroundings and an efficient distribution system- at least for those who lived in the city. Groceries were one venue that coffee could be packaged for and sold from.  For those who still lived in the country however, green beans were probably still the preferred bean purchase.

 

While advertisers were busy convincing consumers that industrial-roasted coffee was the best way to buy coffee, highways were being built allowing coffee distribution to spread. Somewhere along the way we forgot about freshness because the convenience of this new industrialized concept of coffee roasting seemed more important. This new industry saturated many large cities throughout the industrial revolution and the first two wars. 

 

Then, in the 1970's, there was a renaissance of fresh coffee around big cities. A new coffee shop scene came about and people were re-discovering the idea and the importance of freshness as it pertained to coffee. It is with this same mindset that we are adamant about fresh-roasted coffee today. It's quite simple, fresh coffee tastes better. When you pair the finest beans with the freshest roast, you get the ultimate in flavor and freshness.

Rainforest Alliance Gayo Mountain Sumatra

Roaster Bob, Why are you excited about the new Rainforest Alliance Gayo Mountain Sumatra?

 
About half-dozen years ago, Scott Kee and I became bored with the Sumatran coffees that were on the market. They weren’t bad- they just weren’t as interesting as Sumatran coffees are known to be. Three to four years ago however, some really interesting coffees came onto the market from the island of Sumatra that really displayed the characteristics of the complex moving targets that these beans exude; the tastes range drastically from lot to lot.  

Our current Sumatran coffee comes from the northernmost region, the Aceh Mandheling region. This is a very unique coffee because the farmers themselves take care to process the coffee beans and remove the outer layer of the coffee cherry, later sorting the beans by hand. The flavors of Sumatran coffees have very unique variations and can be blended between regions to produce interesting flavor combinations.

You will really be able to taste the earth in this coffee- very rich and sweet; like a beautiful walk in the forest after a rain shower. The romance of Sumatran coffee has returned.

Growing Altitude and Coffee Flavor

 Roaster Bob, How does altitude affect the roasting process and the flavor of coffee beans?

Roaster Bob:

Higher altitudes allow coffee plants to experience a range of warm days and cool evenings which affects the rate at which coffee cherries mature. The higher the altitude, the slower the maturation rate of a given coffee cherry. If a coffee cherry is allowed to mature at a slow rate, the density of the coffee bean inside is higher- the bean is more compact.

When trying to build a roast profile for a coffee bean of such high density, I must keep in mind that dense coffee beans don’t like to take on heat which actually makes it a lot easier to control the roast.  Because I can control the roast more easily, I can nurture many different flavor profiles out of the same coffee beans. Put simply- the higher the coffee is grown, the slower the cherry matures, the more compact the bean is, the more layers of flavor we can light up through the roast!

Typically, all Arabica coffee beans grow at higher altitudes of 4,000+ft. (with the exception of Brazil which grows at an altitude as low as 2500ft.). Dunn Bros Coffee buys coffee beans that are grown between 4200ft. and 5500ft.

A key difference in flavor profiles between coffees grown at a higher altitude and those grown at a lower altitude is the unique sweetness and cleaner, more brilliant acidity the coffees grown at higher altitudes exude. An example of this would be our Guatemalan coffees. Lower altitudes on the other hand, allow more earthy flavors and a heavier body, as exhibited in our coffees from Brazil.”

 

French press brewing

If you love coffee and you’ve never tried brewing with a French press, now is the time.  French press coffee is brewed by mixing the coffee grounds and water directly in a glass carafe, then a metal mesh filter is plunged down through the container leaving just the brewed coffee.  It’s an authentic brewing method—you don’t need electricity or paper filters, just hot water and coffee.  French Press brewing lets the full flavor of the coffee beans shine through.  And it’s as easy to prepare as drip coffee.

 

A few key benefits to French press Brewing:

• Robust and flavorful—none of the flavorful oils get stuck in a paper filter
• No filter needed—less hassle, less waste
• You get to participate in the brewing process—you’re not just pressing a button, you’re making coffee
• It’s fun!

 

 

Brewing tips:

• Grind your coffee coarsely for French Press.  It needs to be coarse enough so that it will not pass through the metal mesh filter.   The very fine particles of the bean will pass through—this is normal and part why French Press coffee is so full bodied and flavorful.
  

• Once you’ve measured the coffee to your taste (use about the same you would for drip brewing) and added the hot water—but not quite boiling—stir, then place the plunger cover on the pot.
  

• Brew for four minutes.  After 4 minutes, all the best flavors, oils and caffeine have been extracted from the coffee.
  

• Turn the spout away from you and anyone else while you plunge.  A precaution just in case any hot coffee happens to squirt out. The plunger pushes all of the coffee grounds to the bottom of the pot and holds them there. Your French press coffee is ready to drink.
  

• Just grab a cup, pour and enjoy.  You might be surprised by the difference between drip brewed coffee and French press coffee.  You’ll find that some days you’re in the mood for drip and some days you want French press.  That’s great—mix it up.  Using a French press is just another great way to enjoy great coffee.